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There are now six full international border crossings between Cambodia and Thailand; all are open - and Visa on Arrival is available at every single one, official tourist visa price is US$30 (you have to pay in USD notes to get this price) but in practice you're likely to have to pay more in Baht notably at Poipet and Koh Kong where officials like to inflate the price.

The main temples are quite well restored, but many temples are in a bad shape of repair and much damage/vandalism has done over the years.

In all temples the level of detail in the stone work is exceptional.

km, most dense forested area, Angkor contains the spectacular remains of several capitals of the Khmer Empire dating from the 9th to the 15th century. The most popular and largest temples are Angkor Wat at Angkor Thom and the Bayon Temple with its many faces looking like something straight out of Tomb Raider.

Equally popular are temples where huge trees have grown on and in the stonework enveloping it in roots.

The Big Circuit, taking in major sites north and further out east.

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It is worth looking, if you have not already, at the example layout to see the guidelines each section of information is based on - or for other travel advice and site home, head for The temples of Angkor and learning something about the country's murderous past.

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Lowlights: Road travel, package type tourists and massive development at Angkor.The very best option is your own transport and the freedom this gives you can't be beat.In Siem Reap renting motorbikes to foreigners (without a driver) is banned and is difficult (not impossible) to get around. Tour buses should be avoided as they visit few sites, are crowded and give no freedom. Back when roads were shocking and Cambodians remembered former guerilla activity and coups, visitors to Angkor were few and far between.The temples can broadly be categorised into four groups: Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, the grandest temple of all and the ancient capital next to it.The Little Circuit, taking in major sites to the east of Angkor Thom.The cleanliness of the water is questionable and it is not that idyllic, As with all Cambodia's tourist hot spots, the is quite a bit of hassle.